When we were last together I was sharing my trip to Europe and I promise to pick up with that again AFTER we visit San Miguel de Allende.
The week of Easter I was invited by my friend Lindsey to go to San Miguel Allende Mexico, and of course I jumped at the chance. Lindsey was the perfect tour guide because she lived in San Miguel off and on for about five years.
Located in the state of Guanajuato, in central Mexico, San Miguel is a truly magical place! Near the highest point in Mexico the city, which is a showcase for some of the most fantastic architecture imaginable, is nestled among scenic mountains that, during my visit, were covered with blooming Jacarandas. It was an absolutely breathtaking sight. As we walked the cobblestone streets I had the distinct feeling that this is what old world Europe must have been like.
We arrived in San Miguel on Saturday, and Palm Sunday was the next day, so we were just in time for the parade. I love a parade, but this was unlike anything I have ever experienced. The sights, sounds and more importantly the smells were almost unreal.
As we made our way to Juarez Park, where the parade was to start, we passed one home after the next, each door and window flanked with billowing palm branches, streamers and crepe paper flowers.
In the streets women were chopping fresh rosemary and chamomile to throw like confetti as the parade passed. I grow rosemary at home, but the fragrance is nothing like what I experienced in San Miguel - it was a feast for the eyes and the nose.
It seemed like all 80,000 residents of the town were crowded into Juarez Park that day. When the priest finished with the prayers and blessing us all with splashes of Holy Water, we set off down the street, behind Jesus of course.
There were elaborately folded palms waving, stunning banners flying, drums beating, brass horns blowing and the sound of singing floating the breeze as we paraded toward the church, all while showers of fragrant rosemary, chamomile and rose petals rained from the sky. It was one of the most magical sights I have ever seen in my life.
As we made our way into the church it was apparent that I was not in America anymore. We were in the middle of the parade and by the time we got into La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel Catholic Church all the pews were full, but that didn’t seem to matter as the throngs just kept piling in. That mass of humanity filled every open spot, sitting on the floors, standing in the courtyard and the vestibule, it was the “fullest” house I have ever seen at a church.
The service was Catholic and in Spanish, so my English Episcopalian understanding was limited, but what I did understand was that there elderly women kneeling on the hard stone floor and children who had been in the parade since 9 a.m. still praising long after the lunch hour had passed.
It was an experience I was truly blessed to have and one I hope to share in again. After all that parading and praising, we had worked up quite an appetite, so we followed our stomachs to Vivali Ristorante which was just as good as I remember it being seven years ago when I last ate there. And for those thinking, Italian food in Mexico? YES. Who would have thought but there it was, and it was spectacular.
When we took our seats at this charming little restaurant, they served us light crusty bread with an olive oil paste loaded with herbs to dip it in.
I ordered the Linguine Gamberi which is a light flavorful shrimp dish and one of the most delicious things I have ever put in my mouth. I am almost ashamed to say I ate every last bite, almost. I made this when I got home and it is wonderful but not as good as the meal I had in San Miguel. I guess the old real estate saying is true, location really is everything. I am looking forward to sharing more of my trip with you next week! Stay tuned.
Ingredients:
• 1 box Linguine
• 1/2 stick of unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 minced medium shallots • 3-4 cloves of fresh minced garlic
• 1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes
• 1 - 1 1/2 lbs medium/ large peeled shrimp
• salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup dry Chardonnay
• 1 lemon – juiced
• Fresh parsley roughly chopped for garnish
Preparation:
Put a large pot of water on the stove to boil, generously season the water with kosher salt. Add pasta & stir to make sure the pasta separates.
Cook for about 8-10 minutes until pasta is al dente. Before you drain your pasta, Reserve one ladel of the spaghetti water.
Drain the pasta. WHILE the pasta is cooking, in a large pan melt 1/2 of the butter & 1/2 of the olive oil over medium- high heat. Saute the shallots, garlic, & red pepper flakes until the shallots are translucent, about 3 – 4 minutes. Be careful not to burn your garlic. Season the shrimp with s/p; add them to the pan and cook until they have turned pink and have a “C” shape to them, this only takes about 2 – 3 minutes. Be careful NOT to overcook your shrimp.
Remove the shrimp from the pan; Place them into your large serving bowl, set aside and keep warm.
Add wine & lemon juice & bring to a boil. Add the remainder of butter and & olive oil. Return the shrimp to the pan along with the cooked pasta. Stir well & season with salt and pepper. If pasta is too thick, thin out with some of your reserved pasta water. Drizzle over a bit more olive oil, garnish with parsley and enjoy!
